The vastness of Hawai‘i Island has always felt like uncharted territory to me. It’s the Big Island, after all, nearly twice as large as all the other Hawaiian Islands combined.

I’ve traveled there numerous times, visiting Kailua-Kona on the west side, Waimea up north and Hilo on the east side. But I’ve never ventured far beyond those towns. In the last few months, though, I’ve been reminded of the importance of seeking new experiences. So, on my most recent trip to Hawai‘i Island, my friend Catherine Toth Fox and I spent two days exploring the Hāmākua Coast.

Stretching 50 miles from Hilo to Waipi‘o Valley on the northeastern side of the island, this lush, serene region receives plenty of rain, hence the tropical rainforests, verdant valleys and epic waterfalls. Dotting the area are charming towns home to hole-in-the-wall shops, famous bakeries, local farms and more. While it’s common to make the trek from Hilo to Waipi‘o Valley via the Hawai‘i Belt Road in one day, Cat and I took two to survey the area, with plenty of pit stops in between. The extra time not only added to my curiosity, but it prompted me to savor the journey and to deeply appreciate the people on the ride, too.

These are just a few spots worth visiting along the Hāmākua Coast.

Hāmākua Hotel

Nestled on 25 tranquil acres, the Hāmākua Hotel is an idyllic home base for travelers on the east side of Hawai‘i Island. There are eight elegant rooms to choose from, all with private lānai for guests to soak in the panoramic views of the Pacific. Guests can enjoy an infinity pool overlooking the ocean along with a spa equipped with a sauna and cold plunge—I only lasted 10 seconds in the frigid water. Twice a week, guests are invited to enjoy cocktails at sunset followed by a six-course dinner prepared by the estate’s esteemed chef. I devoured each of the six dishes.

hamakuahotel.com.

Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden

Opened to the public in 1984, this garden—tucked in a lush valley that opens up to Onomea Bay—sits on 100 acres in Pāpa‘ikou. Visitors can meander through 20 of those acres, along beautiful paths lined with more than 2,500 tropical species.

htbg.com.

Mauna Kea Cacao

In 2011, John and Susan Basset prepared for retirement by purchasing 20 acres of agricultural land along the Hāmākua Coast. Twice a year, the couple would travel from Colorado to the Big Island to plant cacao seedlings on their property. Then, in 2015, they moved to Pepe‘eko full time to care for the cacao trees, harvest the pods, and ferment and dry the beans.

By 2018, their farm had earned the Best Cacao award at the Big Island Chocolate Festival. Today, you can tour the farm and sample some delicious chocolates, too. Susan’s untempered chocolate is a favorite!

maunakeacacao.com.

‘Akaka Falls

This side of Hawai‘i Island is known for its waterfalls—and you can see two at ‘Akaka Falls State Park. A 0.4-mile path, whichloops through a rainforest filled with verdant flora, leads visitors to the 100-foot Kahuna Falls and 442-foot ‘Akaka Falls.

Honomū Dairy

Honomugoatfarm — Visit Honomū Dairy Farm for “goat therapy.”
*Photo: Nani Welch Keli‘iho‘omalu*

Less than 3 miles from ‘Akaka Falls State Park is Honomū Dairy—and trust me, you’ll want to make a pit stop here. The 15-acre farm produces soaps, cheeses and caramel made with milk from its herd of Nubian goats. But for visitors, the best part just might be the free “goat therapy” provided by some of the best therapists you’ll ever meet.

honomugoatdairy.com.

Mr. Ed’s Bakery

In an unassuming shop in Honomū, shelves are lined with colorful jams, jellies, chutneys and sauces. Mr. Ed’s Bakery is a great spot to pick up omiyage (gifts) and sample sweet jams like guava, liliko‘i and mango along with unique flavors like jaboticaba (a tropical fruit native to Brazil). I picked up a vibrant variety of spreads and preserves, including purple sweet potato, ‘ōhelo berry, lychee and li hing mui pineapple to share with friends.

mredsbakeryhawaii.com.

I Luv Dumplings

With its edgy interior and Japanese fusion menu, I Luv Dumplings almost seems out of place in quaint Honoka‘a, an old sugar plantation town. But it’s loved by locals and visitors alike—and I’m already planning to go back. The eatery is known for its gyoza, hirata buns and karaage chicken. The restaurant also serves saimin and ramen, an ode to the past. Back in the 1940s, the site was home to a restaurant nicknamed the “Long Soup Corner” for its popular bowls of samin.
iluvdumplings.com.

Tex Drive In

You can’t visit Honoka‘a without stopping by Tex Drive In for a box of malasadas. These deep-fried pastries are dusted with a healthy coat of sugar and can be ordered plain or come filled with flavors like haupia, mango, pineapple or Bavarian cream. And unlike at other sweet shops, these malasadas are square!

texdrivein-hawaii.com.

Waipi‘o Valley Lookout

“The Valley of the Kings,” home to King Kamehameha when he was a child.
*Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino*

Cat and I ended our Hāmākua Coast journey at the Waipi‘o Valley Lookout. Here, we took in the breathtaking views of what’s known as “The Valley of the Kings,” home to King Kamehameha when he was a child. As I took in the views of the black sand beach and emerald valley, I was in awe.

This story was originally published in our FALL/WINTER 2025 issue, which you can buy here. Better yet, subscribe and get HAWAIʻI Magazine delivered to right to your mailbox.

Grace Maeda is the editor of HAWAIʻI Magazine.

Hele on the Hāmākua Coast 
Here’s how to savor the scenic stretch from Hilo to Waipi‘o Valley on Hawai‘i Island.