15 moments every surfer has experienced when visiting Hawaii
Surfing in Hawaii can be amazing, terrifying and extremely humbling, all at the same time.
Regardless of skill level, the waves in Hawaii have a way of humbling and enticing visiting surfers. And whether it’s the gnarly surf instructor, or the kids who will surf better than you ever will, surfing in Hawaii, and the memories you make from it, comes in all sorts of shapes and sizes.
1. The sweet relief you feel after you get in the water after hours of traveling and cramped airplane seats.
2. Knowing you’re finally in Hawaii, and you’ve got days and days of surfing ahead of you.
3. Paddling out to an unfamiliar break and not knowing anyone else.
4. Trying to make friends with the locals.
5. When you get that one surf instructor (you know the one).
6. Realizing that “2 to 4 feet Hawaiian” actually means “way too big for me.”
7. When you get humbled by 12-year-olds who can surf better than most people, yourself included.
8. Paddling into and standing up on your first wave.
9. Paddling into and standing up on someone else’s wave.
10. When you don’t know the lingo yet, but go for it anyway.
11. The first time you see a local pro surfer.
12. What you think going to watch the Billabong Pipeline Masters is going to be like.
13. What it’s actually like.
14. After surfing a whole week and the waves are still perfect.
15. How it feels when you finally leave Hawaii and surf your home break.