5 Reasons to Love Pāhoa, Hawaiʻi Island

Located just east of Kīlauea, it’s a small town with a big personality.

Situated about a 30-minute drive south of Hilo, the community in and around Pāhoa on Hawaiʻi Island boasts eclectic vibes and unique energy. Here, homesteaders farm and live off the land alongside neighborhoods of eco-villages and communes. They’re a strong and resourceful bunch, as many live in the area designated as Lava Zone 1, the riskiest place to be when it comes to volcanic activity. And the community has proven resilient, having recovered from eruptions in 2018 and 1990.

While Pāhoa is considered a quaint and quiet town, there’s a lot to be fascinated about here. Geology buffs can geek out over lava molds of ancient trees, travelers will love the scenic drive down Red Road and foodies can savor different cuisines.

Here are five reasons you should make the trek to Pāhoa.

Note: Cellphone reception isn’t great if you’re exploring past Pāhoa. It’s recommended to print a map or take screenshots on your phone. You can also stop by the Pāhoa Lava Zone Museum and get a map there.

1. An Abundance of Great Food

Within the 2.3 square miles that’s considered Pāhoa, you can find some of the island’s best fish and chips (Pāhoa Fresh Fish), purple sweet potato sourdough bread (Tin Shack Bakery), Rocky Mountain oysters (Marzo’s Country Sports Bar Grill) and a vegan jungle breakfast plate (Pele’s Kitchen). There’s also Mexican food (Luquin’s and Pancho’s), Thai (Ning’s Thai), a vegan Tex-Mex spot (The Veli), Vietnamese (Van’s Vietnamese Cuisine 2), and shave ice (Blazin’ Snow) that illustrate just how vibrant this community’s culinary scene is.

On the drive to Pāhoa from Hilo or Keaʻau, there’s plenty of roadside food trucks, coffee vendors and produce stands that are worth stopping at. Fish and poke plates are served alfresco at Bite the Eye, and Kaleo’s Bar & Grill serves up local favorites. In addition to the restaurants, a handful of specialty grocery stores are perfect for picnics or meals on the go, including Island Naturals, Mālama Market and Waiholokuʻi Garden.

You’ll also find an authentic Hawaiian culinary experience at the Imu Mea ‘Ai Food Tour, which offers an immersive hands-on opportunity to build an imu (underground oven) and eat the foods traditionally cooked in it.

2. An Alternative to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

While Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is the best place to experience Kīlauea, you can learn even more by exploring Pāhoa, including seeing some of the volcano’s most recent effects. Start at the Pāhoa Lava Zone Museum for a brief introduction to lava and the volcano. Be sure to grab the Puna Drive Guide map before setting out; it offers two routes to explore, with helpful information. Highlights include Lava Tree State Monument, Kaimū Beach Park and Pohoiki, or Isaac Hale Beach Park, where lava from the 2018 eruption dramatically changed the popular fishing, swimming and recreation area.

3. Pāhoa’s Hidden Gems

Folks who really like to venture on the road less traveled some real treasures in and surrounding Pāhoa. Unique spots include the Star of the Sea Painted Church, the St. Damien statue, the MacKenzie State Recreation Area and Seaview Lawn (a beautiful place for a picnic). Just the drive along Kapoho-Kalapana Coast Drive, also known as Red Road, makes a trek to the easternmost part of the island worth it.

4. Maku‘u Farmers Market

Arguably the best farmers market on the entire island, Maku‘u Farmers Market is the place to be every Sunday morning. A wide variety of cuisines can be found at the food trucks and stalls that serve up plate lunches and pizzas, coffee and shave ice, and a whole lot more. (You can spend half of your time just trying to decide where to eat because the options are so good!)

Nearby, you can look for the perfect souvenir at the craft-vendor stands, and produce vendors are there, too,  waiting to tempt you with a variety of tropical fruits.

If you’re not able to make it on Sunday, the Kaimū Farmers Market on Saturday is a nice alternative.

5. Big Island’s Version of Nightlife

While the Big Island is known for being more rural and sleepier, there are some options when it comes to nightlife. They might not be what you’re used to, which makes them all the more interesting.

For cocktails, try the mango margarita with a li hing mui rim at Luquin’s Cantina. You’ll find live music on weekends at Bite the Eye, an outdoor venue made of shipping containers, and The Oasis hosts a monthly drag revue. At La Hiki Ola Kava Bar, you can enjoy live music and open mic nights.

For a little bit of everything, Koa’s Lounge has cocktails, live music, DJs, karaoke and more, depending on the night. For more of a backyard vibe, Marzo’s Country Sports Bar and Grill has sports on TV, live music, line dancing and more to go with its full bar and restaurant.

The crown jewel of nightlife in the Pāhoa area, though, is Uncle Robert’s ‘Awa Bar, which on Wednesday nights turns into a live music venue (family friendly) and night market featuring food and craft vendors. A night at Uncle Robert’s is worth the drive and is the highlight of many visits to the Big Island.

Laurie Lyons-Makaimoku is a contributor to HAWAIʻI Magazine.