It’s official: big surf season is upon us.
This morning’s surf report announced gargantuan swells along
the north-facing shores of all the Hawaiian Islands. Surf heights of 10 to
15 feet are expected today on the north-facing shores of Oahu, Molokai and
Maui, while surf of 14 to 18 feet is expected along the north shores of Niihau
and Kauai.
It’s an impressive sight. But nowhere near the
storm-powered, reef-smashing waves of recent years that have measured upwards
of 30 feet—if not more. Then again it’s
only October, hardly the heart of Hawaii’s
winter.
The seasonal phenomenon is so remarkable it’s one of the
reasons why “Winter in Hawaii Is Better Than Your Summer.” That’s
the title of the cover feature of HAWAII Magazine's upcoming November/December
2008 issue. Keep your eyes peeled for it in the coming weeks at most national
bookstores and newsstands, or by print
subscription or in digital format.
If you’re here with your longboard and tempted to get into
the water, think again. Unless you’re a surf pro you’re best off watching
safely from the shoreline. Bring your camera, too. If you get a solid shot,
send it our way. We love a good surf pic. If we like yours, we'll post it here and tell the world you shot it.
Festivities surrounding winter big wave surf contests like
the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing on
Oahu’s North Shore
and Maui’s Honolua Bay are open to the public.
Competition begins November 12. Or catch my personal favorite, the Quiksilver Eddie Aikau Big Wave
Invitational, happening this December at Oahu’s Waimea Bay.
Surf on the north-facing shores should stay large the next
few days before slowly mellowing over the weekend. If you want to spot the big
waves this week, better call in sick.
I’ll see you at the beach!
Surfers dropping into a wave at Waimea Bay
Photo: Associated Press
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