Sip in Secret at The Hidden Nēnē, Hilo’s Stylish Speakeasy

As I walk around the corner of Keawe Street and Furneaux Lane in downtown Hilo on Hawaiʻi Island, bright red traffic signs shout, “Do Not Enter” and “Wrong Way”—which means I’m in the right place.

I follow the edge of the building until I find a staircase. As I descend into The Hidden Nēnē, I’m transported to a speakeasy-style lounge that blends vintage glamour, modern design and inventive cocktails, all with subtle nods to Hawaiʻi.

Its emerald-green walls, eclectic décor, plush seating and cozy yet lively atmosphere are unlike anything else in this laid-back eastside town. And the place still feels comfortably familiar, almost like a home.

The cocktail menu is broken down into six categories: Bright & Effervescent, Tropic & Exotic, Boozy & Bold, Complex & Adventurous, Prohibition Era and Homage.

Enjoy inventive cocktails at The Hidden Nēnē, which deliberately departs from gimmicky Tiki bars.
Photo: Ashley Probst

Iwakāluakūmāhā is a mix of lilikoʻi (passion fruit), carrot juice, Hawaiian chile pepper and turmeric, while Shoyu a Good Time is described as a “sushi roll in a glass” and topped with a flaming skewer of raw ʻahi. Both showcase the bar’s ability to balance playfulness with a sense of place.

These drinks represent a deliberate departure from gimmicky Tiki bars. The idea here is to embrace a broader perspective. “We’re trying to show how Island flavors are part of the greater world of cocktails,” says Charlene Moe, co-owner and director of operations.

Her personal favorite is the same as mine: The Tea, featuring Japanese gin, matcha and wasabi oil, served in a teacup.

“It was originally two different drinks,” she says. “I was trying a wasabi cocktail and a matcha cocktail, and one day I literally woke up from a dream and I was like, ‘Put the wasabi in the matcha cocktail.’ … It’s my favorite because it was such a challenge to create.”

Moe has a passion for experimenting with flavors. During the Covid-19 lockdown, she explored food preparation techniques and curated a menu for the bar she dreamed of opening someday. Years later, that same menu became the blueprint for The Hidden Nēnē.

The Tea, featuring Japanese gin, matcha and wasabi oil, is served in a teacup.
Photo: Ashley Probst

Its name pays homage to co-owners Adam Potter and Benjamin Vanegtern, who founded the neighboring Puna Chocolate Co. and own the building that’s home to both businesses. Moe, who created the chocolate shop’s first cocktail program, noticed that every chocolate bar from Puna Chocolate Co. features a hidden nēnē (Hawaiian goose) on the wrapper, so she suggested the name. It was perfectly aligned with the speakeasy theme, so it stuck.

READ MORE: 4 New Places in Hilo You Should Check Out

When it comes to sourcing, the team prioritizes local ingredients whenever possible. Behind the bar, that philosophy manifests as Hawaiʻi-made spirits like Kō Hana Kea rum and Pau Maui vodka as well as ʻōhiʻa honey, māmaki tea leaves, fresh flowers and more.

Affordability is another major part of The Hidden Nēnē’s ethos. “I wanted to make sure … even if we offer these fancier cocktails and a more high-end vibe, that anyone can still come and get a good drink,” Moe says.

There are two daily happy hours: early-bird specials from noon to 2 p.m. with $10 cocktails and 20% off build-your-own charcuterie boards, followed by a pau hana from 6-8 p.m.

Light bites range from wholesome housemade soups to decadent prosciutto canapes and a luxurious caviar service, all of which complement the cocktail program and further excite the palate.

The “invisible” New York-style cheesecake is glazed in black tahini.
Photo: Ashley Probst

At the end of the evening, my sweet tooth can’t resist the intriguing desserts. I indulge in the “invisible” New York-style cheesecake glazed in black tahini, which blends in with the black plateware, and a “flaming” sorbet garnished with a rose tincture-soaked dragon fruit slice ignited tableside.

READ MORE: Why Hilo Should Be On Your Hawaiʻi Travel Bucket List

Later, as I step back out onto the street above, I realize what makes this underground bar so special: It’s not just the creativity, but the comfort.

“There’s no pretentiousness when you come downstairs,” Moe says. “It automatically reminds you of someplace you’ve been before … and that’s probably the biggest compliment we get on a regular basis.”

58 Furneaux Lane, Hilo, 808-491-7081, thehiddennene.com

Ashley Probst is a contributor to HAWAIʻI Magazine.