In heavenly Hanalei, lush fields of kalo and pristine beaches are set against Kauaʻi’s misty mountains.
Before the arrival of Westerners, Hawaiians cultivated kalo in Hanalei Valley on the island’s north shore, creating extensive loʻi (taro fields). Kalo is used to make poi, which continues to be a staple starch in Hawaiian culture. Hanalei was also known to produce bountiful harvests of bananas, ʻulu (breadfruit) and ʻuala (sweet potato). In the early 1900s, former sugarcane plantation workers started growing rice; one of the companies they helped form, the Hoʻopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill, still stands, though it ceased production in 1960 and is now a museum.
Photo: Grace Maeda
Every time I cross the historic one-lane bridge over the Hanalei River, I feel enveloped by the timeless charm and history of this idyllic town.
Today, taro fields still sprawl across Hanalei, and the town is also home to mom and pop shops, restaurants and art galleries. Of course, the area is also dotted with breathtaking beaches and epic hiking trails.
Here are 13 of our favorite things about Hanalei.
1. Hanalei Bay
Photo: Getty Images/M.M. Sweet
You can’t visit Hanalei without stopping at Hanalei Bay and the historic pier. Emerald green mountains form the backdrop to the white-sand beach and after heavy rainfall, you’re likely to see waterfalls cascading down. The crescent-shaped beach is also a great place to swim, surf, fish or just lounge on the sand. I enjoy strolling down the pier for even more breathtaking views of the bay, and when the tide is high and I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll even jump off.
2. Mākua Beach
Photo: Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority (HTA)/Tor Johnson
Mākua is considered one of the best snorkeling spots on Kauaʻi. With a labyrinth of underwater lava tubes, the beach is nicknamed Tunnels. Here, you can explore a maze of intricate coral formations and an array of marine life.
READ MORE: The Best Snorkeling Spots on Kauaʻi
3. Hāʻena State Park
Photo: Getty Images/Adam-Springer
Hāʻena State Park is at the end of the road, literally. During summer months you can enjoy the pristine waters of Kēʻē Beach, though, like most beaches on the north shore, ocean conditions can be dangerous in the winter. And while the park is where Kūhiō Highway ends, it’s also where another well-traveled route—the famous Kalalau Trail—begins. For an arduous day-hike, you can make your way to Hanakāpīʻai Falls, an 8-mile round-trip trek.
READ MORE: What Visitors Need to Know About the Reopened Hāʻena State Park
4. Limahuli Garden and Preserve
Once a puʻuhonua, or place of refuge, Limahuli Valley is one of the most diverse regions in Hawaiʻi. The Limahuli Garden and Preserve comprises 17 of the valley’s hundreds of acres, and you can stroll through its grounds to learn more about the ecological and cultural significance of the valley.
5. Hanalei Taro
Photo: Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority (HTA)/Heather Goodman/@hbgoodie
The Haraguchi family has been farming taro on the island’s north shore since 1924. The family also operated the Hoʻopulapula Haraguchi Rice Mill, which they later transformed into a museum.
In 2000, the family launched Hanalei Taro & Juice Co. The farm-to-table food truck offers dishes made from kalo grown on the sixth-generation farm. You can pick up pounds of poi, too.
READ MORE: Hanalei Taro Tour: A Journey into a Kauaʻi Family’s History
6. ʻŌkolehao Trail
Photo: Grace Maeda
The ʻŌkolehao Trail is a steep 5-mile hike, uphill. It leads to a few spots with good views of Hanalei; the first lookout is about 20 minutes from the start of the trail. If you venture just a bit farther, you’ll reach a second overlook with stunning views of Hanalei Bay.
7. Ching Young Village Shopping Center
Photo: James Nakamura
The Ching Young Village Shopping Center encapsulates the town’s mix of small-town spirit and local surf culture. The place is home to an eclectic array of old-school businesses, and walking through the plaza is like stepping back in time. Shops like the Spinning Dolphin, Backdoor Surf Shop and Pedal ’N Paddle have called the center home since the 1980s and ’90s. The Village Snack Shop & Bakery is also a mainstay, popular for its chile pepper chicken and chocolate haupia pie.
READ MORE: A Step in Hanalei’s Past
8. Hanalei Poke
Photo: Aaron. K Yoshino
First a food truck, which was featured on Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” Hanalei Poke is now a brick-and-mortar lunch spot popular for its ultrafresh fish and made-to-order poke bowls. The Hanalei Special is a favorite, with cubes of raw fish dressed in chile pepper soy sauce, chile oil, mango, avocado, furikake and ʻinamona (roasted kukui nut).
9. Wishing Well Coffee and Tea
This café exudes the warm, easygoing vibe of Hanalei. I like ordering a matcha latte or protein-packed smoothie at Wishing Well Coffee and Tea and then relaxing at a picnic table. It’s like hanging out in my backyard, only better. From here, I can soak up the incredible views of Hanalei’s iconic mountains.
wishingwellshaveice.com/coffe-shop
10. Nourish Hanalei
Photo: Catherine Toth Fox
Started by three sisters, this charming farm stand is perched above Hanalei. You can grab açaí bowls topped with homemade granola and local fruit, then sit back and enjoy the view.
11. Holey Grail Donuts
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
Some of my favorite doughnuts come from a red trailer in Hanalei. Made to order, Holey Grail Donuts serves ultrafresh doughnuts prepared with Hawaiʻi-grown kalo. The treats are fried in coconut oil and flavored with locally grown ingredients like chocolate from Lydgate Farms and vanilla from Lāʻie Vanilla Co.
12. Tahiti Nui
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
Located in the heart of Hanalei, this lively family-run restaurant is a favorite among locals and visitors. Stop by Tahiti Nui to enjoy a mai tai (or a few). Just be sure to bring along a designated driver, too.
13. Welina Terrace at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay
Photo: Mikkel Vang
Welina Terrace at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay boasts panoramic views of Hanalei Bay and the surrounding mountains—but that’s not all. As the sun sinks below the horizon, sip cocktails crafted with housemade syrups and nibble on Japanese-inspired small plates made with seasonal ingredients. It’s hard to imagine a better way to end the day in Hanalei.
1hotels.com/hanalei-bay/taste/welina-terrace-lounge
Grace Maeda is the editor of HAWAIʻI Magazine.
