Mist settles among the eucalyptus trees as I wind up Pi‘iholo Road into the heart of Olinda, bound for Ho‘omana Spa to heal body and soul. Pulling into the driveway of this traditional lomilomi (Hawaiian massage) spa on Maui feels less like arriving at a business and more like visiting a loved one, which is entirely intentional.
“It’s not your medi-spa; it’s auntie’s house—literally our home.”
The words of Jeana Iwalani Naluai echo in my mind. Naluai is the spa owner and a traditional lomilomi specialist; her family has stewarded this 2-acre property for more than 20 years.
I take my slippers off at the door and step inside, where a thoughtfully curated retail space showcases an array of locally sourced goods. The highlight is a luscious line of organic skin care products handcrafted in-house from flora grown on the property, using traditional Hawaiian medicinal concepts.
After checking in with the warm receptionist, I’m invited onto the lānai, where I curl up in a wicker chair with a soothing cup of tea. I gaze at the gray sky framed by an abundant avocado tree and a sense of peace washes over me. Today feels like the perfect day for rest and replenishment.
Soon a bodywork practitioner arrives to escort me into a serene treatment room for the Aloha Spa Ritual: a nourishing bath, exfoliating body polish, relaxing lomilomi massage and a refining mini facial. Naluai recommended this particular treatment as a way to sample the breadth of what Ho‘omana Spa has to offer.
The room feels like a private suite, complete with a porcelain bathtub and a cushioned massage table. A breeze stirs the sheer curtains that serve as a delicate veil between me and the secluded backyard.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
My bath is already drawn. I pour a bowl of coconut-honey ‘awa (kava) salts into the steamy water, then melt into the moisturizing soak. Sunlight peeks through the skylight, its aquatic reflections doing a mesmerizing dance on the ceiling. After about 20 minutes, my practitioner knocks softly, a quiet signal that it’s time to transition to the massage table. Sliding under the crisp sheet feels especially comforting after the warm bath.
It’s on the table where the real magic happens. The air fills with the sweet aroma of liliko‘i (passion fruit) as a sugar scrub buffs away any impurities. Then, rich liliko‘i body butter is kneaded into my skin through the long, rhythmic strokes that define lomilomi massage. The ritual concludes with a facial that leaves me radiantly glowing inside and out.
As I step back outside, a soft, cleansing rain envelops me—nature’s blessing on a day of restoration. With softened muscles and a clear mind, I leave seriously considering the spa’s membership program, which offers a monthly lomilomi massage at $40 off the regular price.
But what sets this spa apart, and why I’d like to return, is its deeper approach to wellness. While many guests come seeking physical relief, the most significant changes often unfold beneath the surface. They go beyond easing tight shoulders or sore backs. It’s about uncovering and releasing any emotional or spiritual disharmony manifesting as ailments in the physical body. As Naluai explains, it’s about tapping into “the wisdom of the bones.”
This is why each spa ritual is intentionally designed and catered to the individual. For example, the detoxifying Pa‘akai features a lemongrass-sea salt bath and deep-tissue lomilomi massage. The grounding ‘Āina includes an herbal soak, warm ‘awa-alae (clay) body masque and ‘ili ‘ili (hot stone) lomilomi massage. The balancing Pono begins with a ho‘oponopono (Hawaiian practice of forgiveness) session followed by a coconut-honey bath, four-hand lomilomi massage and kukui (candlenut) body wrap.
Services can also be booked à la carte or curated into a retreat for couples and groups. Additional offerings include the signature lomilomi with a hot stone foot massage and coconut-rosemary scalp treatment, a hāpai (pregnancy) massage and kua lua, a traditional form of Hawaiian back walking.
Ho‘omana Spa does more than just provide space to experience kua lua—it’s where most local practitioners learn the technique, which is rooted in the ancient Hawaiian martial art of lua. Once practiced by warriors, who also served as healers, the same points used to disable the body in combat were also activated to bring it back into alignment.
“Each vertebra represents one generation of ancestral support that we stand upright upon,” Naluai says. “In our culture, we know where we’ve been; it informs where we’re going.”
It’s this cultural connection that informs not only her treatments, but her life’s work. As the steward of her lineage, Naluai carries the kuleana (responsibility) of sharing the Hawaiian healing arts passed down by her kumu (teachers).
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
“The kuleana is to be a voice for the ancestors, because they haven’t always had that. They had to hide a lot of our teachings in protective secrecy for so long,” says Naluai, who’s preparing to depart for Europe to teach lomilomi there in a powerful full-circle moment.
Like the kumu before her, Naluai’s teachings blend love, prayer and sacred touch. These values were instilled by mentors like her Auntie Mahi Poe Poe, whose vision continues to be the guiding light on her path as a healer.
“She was all about honoring all the children of the rainbow—all of the people of the world from every color and race and religion,” Naluai says of her familial teacher. “She wanted this work to wrap the arms of aloha around the globe. That’s what she told me, and that’s what I’ve been doing.”
For those called to learn the art of traditional Hawaiian massage, Ho‘omana Spa offers lomilomi training about five times a year. These immersive sessions culminate in a Ho‘opa‘a mastership class, during which kahuna (expert-level) teachings explore the spiritual and energetic dimensions of healing. Throughout the courses, Naluai draws on wisdom from her kumu, including world-renowned healer Auntie Margaret Machado.
“She said, ‘If you match your breath to theirs, your ha (breath of life), then your soul can meet theirs. That’s where the transformation begins,’” Naluai recalls, noting that the visible shifts in clients are the most rewarding part of her work.
And her advice for anyone stepping into this sacred space? “Be open. The greatest transformation happens when you believe that healing is possible.”
1550 Pi‘iholo Road, Makawao, (808) 573-8256, hoomanaspamaui.com.
This story was originally published in our FALL/WINTER 2025 issue, which you can buy here. Better yet, subscribe and get HAWAIʻI Magazine delivered to right to your mailbox.
Ashley Probst is a contributor to HAWAIʻI Magazine.
