This story was originally published in our SUMMER Digital issue, which you can view here.
A few months ago, I met a colleague for coffee in Downtown Honolulu. He worked at HAWAI‘I Magazine more than a decade ago and kindly let me pick his brain about the local publishing industry. We also talked about the once-in-a-lifetime experiences that come with working at HAWAI‘I Magazine.
Even though we’re scattered across islands, there is no doubt a shared experience of growing up in Hawai‘i. Yet living on separate islands means there are places many of us have never seen—or even heard much about.
My colleague and I admitted that it wasn’t until we started working at HAWAI‘I Magazine that we were exposed to the grandeur of all the Hawaiian Islands. We were both surprised by how little we knew about places like the Nāpali Coast growing up.
It wasn’t until I began working at the magazine that I started to understand why the Nāpali Coast is considered one of Hawai‘i’s most iconic landscapes—not only for its rugged beauty and towering sea cliffs, but also for its rich cultural history.
On this slightly overcast morning, I’m excited to finally witness the legendary coastline with our photographer Aaron K. Yoshino.
Aaron and I arrive at Port Allen Marina in ‘Ele‘ele, on Kaua‘i’s south shore, where many Nāpali Coast tours depart. We check in with Blue Dolphin Charters, and once all guests are accounted for, we take a short walk down to board the boat.
Not long after leaving the marina, we make our first stop to snorkel off Kaumakani on the island’s southwest coast. As soon as I jump into the ocean, schools of fish dart past me, and I’m immediately struck by the crystal-clear visibility. Our group spends about an hour snorkeling among brightly colored reef fish.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
Back on board, Capt. Joe Kali, who’s been working with Blue Dolphin Charters for more than 20 years, tells me he still looks forward to watching guests experience both the snorkeling and the Nāpali Coast for the first time. He says it’s often the kids on board who are the most animated. “They’re on cloud nine and it’s so cool to see.”
As we continue north along Kaua‘i’s western shoreline, we pass jagged cliffs that plunge into turquoise waters. Capt. Joe steers the boat close to shore, giving us a better look at the secluded beaches between valleys, impressive sea arches and streaming waterfalls.
“I’ve probably seen the pali 500 times, and it’s still as amazing as the first time,” says first mate Zeke Perciavalle, who has been working with Blue Dolphin Charters for about two years. He says, “Each time you notice something different.”
The Nāpali Coast stretches 17 miles, with sea cliffs reaching as high as 4,000 feet. Capt. Joe tells our group that long before recreational hikers and sightseeing boats arrived, this coastline was home to thriving ancient Hawaiian communities. Archaeological surveys have uncovered agricultural terraces, remnants of houses and ceremonial structures throughout the valleys. The coastline’s isolation helped sustain these communities, which were primarily accessible by steep foot trails or by canoe. Archaeological research also suggests that some sea caves were used for shelter, storage, fishing and, in some cases, ceremonial purposes.
As we marvel at Kaua‘i’s famed sea cliffs that rise above the Pacific Ocean, Capt. Joe says, “It’s hard to imagine how something this big, with this kind of essence, is on an island so small.”
For more information about Blue Dolphin Charters, visit bluedolphinkauai.com.
Grace Maeda is the editor of HAWAIʻI Magazine.
